Stunning views await on tour of southern Chile

First published by The Journal Gazette

It’s hard to make sense of this world when part of it is in turmoil and the other part is in tranquility.

I went on the amazing and peaceful full-day tour of Torres del Paine and Cueva del Mylodon Cave Natural Monument in southern Chile. Starting in Puerto Natales, the closest town to Torres del Paine, I hopped into a nine-passenger white van and quickly moved to a window seat.

My eyes were glued to the views outside the window for almost the entire early morning journey. The van was silent as we drove past beautiful snow-patched rolling lands, glassy lakes and snowcapped mountains. The sun was peeking out from behind the mountain tops of the picturesque Patagonia region. It lit the fluffy, white cotton balls in the blue sky.

The northern border of Patagonia is challenging to identify. Maps of South America are not consistent in showing where the funnel-shaped area begins in Chile and Argentina. But maps are consistent in showing Patagonia covers the countries’ southern tips.

A short while into the trip, the driver made an unexpected stop. We pulled over the side of the two-way road to see a group of guanacos. We were in a rural area with no other vehicles in sight. The guanacos were in a large field, gathered behind a fence that ran along the side of the road. They were grazing on dry grasses and shrubs. A guanaco is a camelid native to South America, closely related to the llama. They didn’t run as I slowly approached the fence to take pictures. One stopped eating, poked its neck up, turned and stared at me. I stopped, I snapped my pictures, and then I left.

We later arrived at the popular Mylodon Cave Natural Monument. The cave was used by early settlers for protection from the unpredictable weather and wild animals. The ground was covered in ice and snow. I cautiously walked on the sidewalk and occasionally used the wooden hand rail as I slowly approached the big entrance to the cave. Along the way, there were sculptures of animals that once roamed the area. The tour of the cave took less than 20 minutes, and I wouldn’t consider the cave a must-see. It was part of my tour package.

My next stop was the stunning Torres del Paine. Its diverse landscapes, beautiful mountains and breathtaking views makes this park one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. There were several tempting scenic hiking trails that go into the mountains and by lake shores. But I was with a tour group in a van. We stopped a few times to take pictures but we were on a tight schedule and the three-hour tour of the park didn’t include a hike.

The cost of my tour didn’t include everything. I had to also purchase separate national park entry permits from Chile’s national park service at least 24 hours before my entry into the parks. Some people on my tour failed to buy these permits but were allowed entry anyways. I wouldn’t recommend the risk. I have heard stories of people being denied entry for not having the permits. And buying a permit right before entry is near impossible. The area has terrible mobile reception and there is a chance you will not be able to receive your permit by email.

My final stop was in Puerto Natales. The small town is located on the entry of Last Hope Sound on the Pacific Ocean. It’s a popular place to watch the sun set behind the mountains. But a note of caution: I stared at the setting sun for too long. The next day, I had a terrible headache.

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