A tale of two city tours: Travel writer visits Cologne, Germany

First published by The Journal Gazette

Is a free city walking tour better than a paid city walking tour? Spoiler alert! The quality is the same. But do not let the word “free” fool you. The old saying, “There’s no such thing as a free lunch” applies even in Cologne, Germany.

I went on the amazing two-hour Original Funky-Fun Free Tour of Cologne offered by Can You Handle It tours. The tour started in front of a Starbucks at Cologne Central Station. Emily, the tour guide, mentioned that the tour needs at least two people to start and it started 10 minutes late.

The guide said that even though the tour is free, people should tip at the end and posting positive reviews is appreciated.

Emily is from Michigan and moved to Cologne for graduate school. She stood professional and confident with a small folder of well-organized visual aids to help with her descriptions. It was like she was ready to give her dissertation, and we would grade her performance in tips and reviews.

Our first stop was the historic Cologne Cathedral, which is the city’s most famous landmark. That is where I learned from Emily that I could go into the twin spires of the cathedral and get amazing views of the city’s skyline.

We walked to the Hohenzollern Bridge, also known as the “love locks bridge.” It is a railway bridge that handles more than 1,200 trains daily. It also has a pedestrian walkway lined with hundreds of thousands of colorful padlocks.

Emily said people compare the Hohenzollern Bridge to the famous Pont des Arts also known as the “love locks bridge” in Paris. But Emily noted that that bridge is a pedestrian-only bridge. “Locks were removed because of the added weight,” Emily said. “Our bridge is better! Ours can handle the extra weight.”

We then walked along the Rhine River. She showed us a picture of the Philharmonic Hall, a nearby concert hall that is partly underground. The public outdoor square above the roof of the concert hall must be closed off for each performance or concertgoers can hear people walking on the square.

Emily kept the tour moving, encouraged questions, and made the tour feel personal. I stayed for the entire time. I did feel pressure to tip and worried if the amount I tipped met Emily’s expectations. I wanted to be seen as a considerate tourist.

I also went on the awesome two-hour Cologne: Old Town Beer History Tour offered by the Kölsch Crew. The tour cost 20 euros, or around $23, which did not cover the cost of beers.

The tour started next to the Heumarkt light rail station, and this one started on time.

Jana, a German tour guide, kept the group together with her lively storytelling as we walked to explore the breweries.

Our first stop was the Brauerei zur Malzmühle. It is a 150-year-old family brewery with a restaurant. We entered through its front antique wooden revolving doors and then pushed aside a thick purple curtain to find a vibrant and historic atmosphere. We could hear laughter and clinking glasses.

“U.S. President Bill Clinton visited here in 1999 during the G8 summit,” Jana said. She pointed out that there is a photo of him above the table where he ate.

A few minutes later, Jana and a waiter brought everyone mugs filled with Mühlen Kölsch, a gold-colored beer. Jana reminded everyone that this was a traditional beer hall. If you want to stop drinking, you must decline refills.

Our next stop was the Gilden Im Zims. It has a history dating back 550 years. Jana reserved the popular cellar. “This is a special spot,” Jana said. “When this room was expanded a few years ago, a Roman vaulted cellar was found.”

We were served the brewery’s popular Kölsch beer. It comes in a small glass, but our attentive waiter quickly replaced empty glasses. I did not know anyone on the tour, but the sense of camaraderie grew as these strangers became friends over rounds of beers.

When the tour ended, I didn’t feel pressure to tip Jana, but I did.

Both walking tours were great. They gave me a sense of direction so I could explore the city on my own.

Tour guides should be leery of offering free tours. People that don’t show face no penalty; others might leave during the tour. People might also enjoy the tour and not tip.

But I prefer free tours. Free encourages me to register. I also have more freedom because if I decide not to go at the last minute, I will not lose money. And if the tour is poor, I have just wasted time, not money.

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