First published by The Journal Gazette
Which European city has what appears to be a flying saucer hovering on top of a bridge tower? Bratislava, capital of Slovakia.
This magnificent city is known for its impressive architecture, beautiful art and gorgeous landscape. I didn’t plan before my visit; instead, I arrived energized and curious. I used a Wi-Fi-accessible device to research as I explored, and this is what I discovered.
Standing about 311 feet tall, the UFO Tower landmark is so popular that visiting it seems to be a rite of passage for tourists entering Bratislava. Though the weather was cold and windy, I toughed it out with red eyes and a runny nose.
From the open-air observation deck at the top, I got a panoramic view of Bratislava, including its historic downtown and Europe’s second longest river, the Danube. Visitors can enhance their views of the area by walking up the attached two-step platforms to viewing spots that are scattered by the outer rail.
Below the open-air deck is a warm indoor restaurant and bar with floor-to-ceiling windows. From April to October, there also is a UFO Skywalk that offers an adrenaline rush. One of the windows in the observation tower opens, and thrill-seekers are connected by only two cords to the exterior of the saucer, and they move around outside the saucer as their feet dangle over the ground far below.
I didn’t get a chance to go on the UFO Skywalk; it was closed. But I was OK with that – I was just happy that inside I didn’t need my scarf and gloves. After I finished viewing the area from above, I rode down in the small, crowded elevator for 45 long seconds.
Then I crossed the New Bridge, which is the seventh largest hanging bridge in the world. As soon as I exited the bridge, I ran across to the striking St. Martin’s Cathedral. It’s the largest church, and one of the oldest, in Bratislava.
Then I walked to Bratislava Castle on the adjacent hill. I started up a modern concrete road that shifted to old stone stairs. As I walked, I passed cafés and souvenir shops that were tucked in corners of small streets lined with small two- and three-story historic row houses.
The massive white shoebox-shaped castle at the top kept getting closer and closer, but the climb was exhausting. I admit I had to take a few short breaks to catch my breath; that allowed me to see another side of the beautiful old downtown of Bratislava.
When I passed the castle’s entry gates, there were two guards in old-style traditional military uniforms. From the courtyard, I walked to its gardens and terraces, then went inside its museum. Under the castle are old tunnels that lead to bomb shelters and a train tunnel. Bratislava Castle is the most famous landmark of the capital (sorry, UFO Tower). In fact, the castle is pictured on the 10-, 20- and 50-cent euro coins.
Next, I walked the city’s old cobblestoned streets, where I visited shops and cafés. I stepped over “Cumil” (aka “Man at Work”), a bronze sculpture of a sewer worker resting in a manhole. I ate at the famous Lemontree & Sky Bar, which serves Asian cuisine.
I took a ride-share service to Devin Castle, about 15 minutes from downtown Bratislava. The castle sits on a hillside where the Danube and Morava rivers merge below on one side, and there is a valley filled with brown-roofed homes below on the other side.
I went when it opened at 10 a.m., and there were only a handful of tourists. I quickly walked to the top, where I was alone. I valued the silence while I enjoyed the stunning views. As the cool breezes hit my face in the comfortable 60-something-degree weather, I felt for a moment like I was the king of this castle. My moment vanished as other tourists arrived.
If you have mobility limitations, I don’t recommend going to Bratislava, but if you have good walking shoes and you don’t mind climbing stairs, the Slovakian city is worth a visit. But plan no more than two days – there are several other countries close by that you can reach by train in order to get more of a central European experience.